- Get hold of a long lens, 200mm with a 10mp camera seemed to be just good enough.
- Put on a tripod.
- Change to spot metering and meter on the moon itself.
- The earth's rotation seems to give noticable motion blur on exposures over 2/3 sec.
- When the moon was still visible and white, I set the camera to f5.6 and ISO100. The meter gave an exposure of 1/50 sec.
- For the images where it was red, I put the camera on manual and set it to 2/3 sec, f5.6 and ISO500.
- I then set the camera to self timer with a mirror lock up so that I could press the shutter release, let go, and then the mirror would go up and then a delay before the shutter opened so that I minimised shake.
- Finally, I opened the raw files in Photoshop, brightened up the red moon image and unsharp masked them all to crisp them up.
- Just as a side note, the originals were only double the size of these, literally about 300 pixels wide. If you have a lower resolution camera, you would need a longer lens, or a teleconverter.
--
Oh that is so lame, every hot girl who can aim a camera thinks shes a photographer - Stewie Griffin
I'd save up and get a 70-200, having a f2.8 lens is so much nicer than an f5.6, unless you can get one with VR. Unfortunately the Nikon 70-300 VR is rubbish
So yeah, a 70-200; Sigma like Alfred's or Nikon like Jozef's. Either that or get an 18-200 VR like mine, no need for any other lens ever rly
--
Oh that is so lame, every hot girl who can aim a camera thinks shes a photographer - Stewie Griffin
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Comments
--
Richard
Blog: [link]
Twitter: [link]
- Get hold of a long lens, 200mm with a 10mp camera seemed to be just good enough.
- Put on a tripod.
- Change to spot metering and meter on the moon itself.
- The earth's rotation seems to give noticable motion blur on exposures over 2/3 sec.
- When the moon was still visible and white, I set the camera to f5.6 and ISO100. The meter gave an exposure of 1/50 sec.
- For the images where it was red, I put the camera on manual and set it to 2/3 sec, f5.6 and ISO500.
- I then set the camera to self timer with a mirror lock up so that I could press the shutter release, let go, and then the mirror would go up and then a delay before the shutter opened so that I minimised shake.
- Finally, I opened the raw files in Photoshop, brightened up the red moon image and unsharp masked them all to crisp them up.
- Just as a side note, the originals were only double the size of these, literally about 300 pixels wide. If you have a lower resolution camera, you would need a longer lens, or a teleconverter.
--
Oh that is so lame, every hot girl who can aim a camera thinks shes a photographer
- Stewie Griffin
I noticed that rotation problem too, makes you wonder how fast we are rotating!
I'm looking into getting a 70-300mm lens, It's gonna be either Sigma APO, Tamron or Nikon ED. Any suggestions? Seems like Sigma is the best buy.
--
Richard
Blog: [link]
Twitter: [link]
This is the crap I took: [link]
--
Richard
Blog: [link]
Twitter: [link]
So yeah, a 70-200; Sigma like Alfred's or Nikon like Jozef's. Either that or get an 18-200 VR like mine, no need for any other lens ever rly
--
Oh that is so lame, every hot girl who can aim a camera thinks shes a photographer
- Stewie Griffin
--
Oh that is so lame, every hot girl who can aim a camera thinks shes a photographer
- Stewie Griffin
--
Richard
Blog: [link]
Twitter: [link]
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